Introducing ‘Travel Tips’ - a destination, better yet, ‘tips’ guide to some of my favourite places. I’m kicking this off with Bequia (pronounced Beck-way). It seems timely - for many reasons:
1.) Over the last month alone, I’ve been asked for my ‘guide to’ Bequia more times than I care to write out each request. Not because I don’t want to help, but because with every ask, I suppose I feel I let slip a little more of one of the world’s best kept secrets.
2.) I married into a Bequia family. Until late last year, my husband’s family had a property there for nearly 30 years, so I like to think I can scratch a little under the usual travel guide surface.
3.) Last week, Bequia lost one of its greats, Bob Sachs. Shrouded in Hollywood headlines, the news of his passing doesn’t do justice to just how changed this island now remains forever. Bob was Bequia personified - low key, unfussy, full of character, loud, up for a good time, soulful, and a little bit grumpy. Bob, our days started and ended with you; a morning dive and a sunset rum punch. Thank you for sharing your part of the world with us. Fly high!
With the house and Bob now gone, for us, Bequia will never be the same, so perhaps it finally feels like the right time to let you in on the secret.
I don’t love the Caribbean. Major generalisation I know, but for the most part, it’s true. Half of it feels like a luxury Disneyland that is so out of touch with its locale that it’s almost distasteful, the other half is trying to keep up.
Not Bequia. Yet. Bequia is about as authentic as the Caribbean still gets. It doesn’t exist for tourists, it exists for itself. The sooner you acclimate yourself to that, the sooner you’ll enjoy it. You’re on island time here. Service comes with a big hearty grin, but it doesn’t come fast. Food is fine, the rum is great; the more you have, the greater it gets. Luxury is not in the island vocabulary, but with simplicity comes a new appreciation for everything being just ‘irie’. It’s this consciousness that overtakes and makes you fall in love with Bequia.
My travel tips are not going to take the form of a week’s long day to day guide, or how to spend 24 hours on the island (you can’t by the way - planes and ferries are a consideration). Instead, I’m going to give you the raw ingredients, and you can make with them whatever recipe of activity you like.
How long…
Five to seven nights is a perfect length of stay. Connecting flights would dictate that you pair this with Barbados, Saint Lucia or Saint Vincent but I would recommend a two or three night add-on at the new Soho House in Canouan (more to come on that another day).
Where to stay…
Rent a house rather than stay at a hotel. Friendship House gets my vote.
All houses here: The Grenadines Collection
If you ARE going to stay at a hotel, Bequia Beach Hotel is the most all-rounded / equipped.
Insider tip…
All the hotels do day-passes with access to sun loungers, beaches, pools, lunch and cocktails. Pick your vibe for the day - or the wind direction. The Liming is the most up-market (and small) but it’s the other side of the island so plan to be there all day. The Bequia Beach Hotel is the biggest hotel on the island - so expect everything that comes with that. Cruise ships (irritatingly!) come into Bequia - these are the perfect days to do a hotel day pass and avoid town (steer clear of Jack’s Bar on these days).
Getting around…
Renting a car and finding a local taxi to service you for the week will work out the same price - so enjoy rum punches at your leisure. Ask for Noel (yes, seriously, you can just ask for Noel and someone will point you in the right direction. Orange taxi. Tell him Dominic and Emma sent you!).
What to do…
Life on Bequia revolves around the water: diving, sailing, boat trips, fishing. The latter will also dictate what’s on the menus so keep an eye out for giant tuna and lobster coming into the docks!
Diving with Dive Bequia
Sail to the Tobago Cays on Friendship Rose (if you’re in a larger group, rent this exclusively)
Boat and fishing trips with Dwight (message me and I’ll send you his number). Stop at Mustique for lunch at Basil’s Bar or The Cotton House (you need to pre book in advance). Bring snorkels and swim with the turtles whilst you wait for lunch. Tell Dwight I say “hi!”.
Become a local…
Check out ‘Bequia What’s On’ on Facebook for the weekly newsletter. I know, time to reactivate your Facebook account.
The Food…
Restaurants open and close quite regularly so give them a check or ask in town what the best nights are that season:
The Liming (for lunch)
Maria’s Cafe (for a sailor’s breakfast)
Lobster Fest night at Bequia Beach Hotel
Laura’s Restaurant
My extras…
Start each day with a morning dive
A massage break at Jack’s Bar to relieve the lunchtime sun
Hike Mount Peggy
Evening swim (with snorkel and hopefully a few turtles or rays) out to the floating Bar One to watch sunset. Get a taxi boat back after a few rum punches
Backgammon games under the tree at The Gingerbread. I’m not sure if the café has reopened now but this is the best stretch to people-watch and observe island life. It’s also the best stretch of water to play bat and ball in the sea. Look out for octopus!
The Bequia Beach Hotel does the best Piña Colada
And so I leave you with one final ‘tip’ - go soon. The secret is becoming more of an under your breath chit chat at the dining table and I fear it’s only a matter of time until the Disneyland investors change this place forever.
Went to Bequia years ago, perfect idyllic under-the-radar escape! Loved revisiting through your eyes.
This sounds (and looks) idyllic. Especially from my current spot looking out onto a very grey corner of northern England...