Travel Tips

Hudson (Valley)

The “Hudson Valley” covers a wide (and long) stretch. For the out-of-towners (and actually, those who’ve seldom gone north of New York City), the Hudson Valley follows the Hudson River; essentially as far north as Albany and as far wide as the neighbouring states (ish) - Connecticut and Massachusetts to the right and Pennsylvania to the left. “Upstate” stretches for hundreds of miles beyond that. 

Hudson is a town within the Hudson Valley situated on the river, 100 miles directly north of New York City. Back in the day, it was the second largest whaling station in the United States after Nantucket. As a result, it also bears a whale as its logo. It is arguably the, or at least becoming the, most gentrified of the more northern Hudson Valley towns. The Amtrak train line runs along the picturesque bank of the river straight into Hudson mostly depositing city transplants on a Friday afternoon and scooping them back up on a Monday morning. 

Call me biased, but Hudson has it all. In the winter, skiing is a half hour drive away; come springtime, the farmers markets open and the produce multiplies; in the summer, it becomes a playground for lake swimming and hiking; and in the fall, it’s famed for its foliage. Nestled within this is a scene (Warren Street) of antique furniture shops, restauranteurs seeking a quieter life (and greater produce) from the city, entrepreneurs preying on its potential and a tight knit local community of young (and old) creatives. The latter is perhaps Hudson’s most special attribute.

There’s a ‘code’ up here. I won’t speak of hidden swimming spots or local discounts - some things remain safeguarded, but there’s still plenty this enchanting place has to offer. 

Inness | Rivertown Lodge | Wildflower Farms

How long…

Debatable. Yes, it’s perfect for a weekend jaunt from the city, but the longer you spend here, the better it gets. When we first started visiting Hudson, it started as a two night weekend escape. Then we started renting a week at a time, and then we jumped two feet in and bought a house. It has that effect on you.

Where to stay…

This somewhat depends on the experience you want. If you’re coming up on the train and are confined to Hudson town without a car, (or you’re a swinger!), then you’re looking at The Maker (the tourist trap), or Rivertown Lodge (a more authentic experience). If you’re looking to cover more terrain, you’ve got other options further afield: Inness, Wildflower Farms, Piaule, Camptown, Troutbeck, - but you’re now looking at a slightly different trip. Less Hudson, more Hudson Valley. 

Insider tip…

There’s loads of “Guides to the Hudson Valley”, or “What to do in Hudson” articles out there. Most of them have been written by people who’ve spent no longer than a long weekend there. They all say the same thing - and they're mostly written by people who didn’t have access to a car. The most annoying thing about these articles is their ‘coverage’ of the Hudson Valley - suggesting you might travel two hours for lunch before another three hours to get to a hike. It’s unrealistic. Google no more, I’ve got you covered.

It’s also worth noting that many places are closed Mondays through Wednesdays - especially the shops. Slowly, opening hours (and days) are extending but it’s definitely worth a check.

Getting around…

There’s definitely a train itinerary (limited to Hudson central) and a car itinerary (hello Hudson Valley). You’re not going to get the full experience without access to a car - and taxis / Ubers are limited (and expensive) up here. My advice? Rent the car!

What to do…

What’s your type? There’s eating, there’s shopping, there’s hiking, there’s swimming, there’s farm stands, there’s apple picking, there’s antique car drives… the only thing missing, for now, is a good spa. Incoming Soho House and Six Senses in 2025.

• Kaaterskill Falls - various hiking trails. Great in summer, more impressive in winter

• Copake Lake - rent a pontoon boat

• Lake Taghkanic - a public beach for those needing a swim

• Hunter Mountain - walk it the summer, ski it in the winter

• Farm shops - MX Morning Star, Meisner’s, Chatham Berry Farm

• Greenport Conservancy Area - bring a picnic or sundowners and sit in the gazebo looking out across the mountains

• Tivoli Bays - walk it, then get an ice cream at Fortunes

• Olana - State historic site with nearly 360 degrees

• Drive In - old school vibe theatre drive-in showing the latest movies

• Kingston Farmer’s Market - Saturday mornings (May through November)

• Hudson Farmer’s Market - Saturday mornings (April through November)

• Kinderhook Farmer’s Market - Saturday mornings (April through November)

• Current Cassis - a blackcurrent fermentory with a tasting bar

• Art Omi Sculpture Park - not as impressive at Storm King but worth a visit

• Lasting Joy - if you like beer, you’ll like it here

• Rose Hill Farm - for apple picking, pumpkin patches and cider tasting

Hereafter | Stissing House | Feast & Floret

The Food…

Hudson:

• Feast & Floret - our favourite, everybody’s favourite. You’ll need to book in advance.

• The Tavern at Rivertown Lodge - all round great. The most interesting Hudson menu. 

• Hereafter - the newest gal on the block. A ‘speakeasy’ style bar with great drinks and better food. 

• Café Mutton - the hype has died down so you can finally get in once again. Go for brunch - you won’t be disappointed. 

• W.M Farmer - it’s where the tourists go. Good food, good drinks, but they’ll never remember your name or your order, which as an out-of-towner, you won’t care about. As a local, you will. 

• Hudson Roastery - the local coffee shop with the best croissants in New York State (I can’t say I’ve tried them all, but I’ve done pretty thorough research). Great sandwiches, best team!

• Governor’s Tavern - the local hang out, the local dive bar. A great burger.

• Back Bar - best in the summer when the ‘front’ (ironic) is open and lobster rolls and oysters are flowing. 

• Isaan Thai - if you’re renting longer term and want a little takeaway option, this is it. 

• Mel The Bakery - big shoes to live up to after Breadfolks but she’s got it in hand.

• Le Perche - weekend brunch location.

• Kitty’s Market Café - a good hangover egg sandwich to get on the go. Don’t bother with the restaurant. Oh and they sell the best hummus I’ve ever eaten (Homestead Hummus) if you need provisions.

• The Meat Hook - for the Brooklynites amongst you, at last, a high end butcher is on its way!

You’ll need a car:

• Stissing House - probably the most famous of the Hudson Valley restaurants. There’s a reason. 

• Casa Susanna - the restaurant at Camptown. Order the right thing and you’ll be delighted. 

• Quinnie’s - the best sandwiches and on select summer nights, excellent pop ups from the city.

• Ten Barn Farm - if you’re looking for that authentic country charm, this is it. A simple brunch in a quaint setting on someone’s farm.

• Morningbird Café - a vibe for a Saturday morning coffee and a spicy asian style egg sandwich (and others). 

• West Taghkanic Diner - don’t be fooled. This is not your average diner - in every way. Opening hours vary (when open at all!), but the food doesn’t disappoint. Best pancakes I’ve ever had.

• Fortunes Ice Cream - remember, I’m an ice cream snob. Need I say more?

• Westerly Canteen - a roaming food truck. Check where they’ll be situated.

Others to note (depending on where you’re staying):

• Silvia, Woodstock

• Goodnight, Woodstock

• Olsen & Co, Saugerties

• Troutbeck, Amenia

• Piaule, Catskills

• The Farmer’s Wife, Ancramdale

• Gaskins, Germantown

• Conover Club, Callicoon

• Brushland Eating House, Bovina

• Bovina Farm & Fermentory, Bovina

The Shops.. 

Hudson:

• Farm Shoppe - the world’s most luxe farm shop complete with gold foil chocolate cake (yes, it’s worth the $40!)

• The Shop - the best antiques

• Clove & Creek - Hudson’s closest thing to a concept store

• FINCH - chic, sexy antiques, clothes and tabletop

• Batterby House - trinkets

• Nikki Chasin - locally made clothing, some designer items too

• Red Chair - the most expensive antiques you’ll ever buy - or not buy because you can’t afford them

• Talbot & Arding - remember that scene in The Holiday when Cameron Diaz goes food shopping? This is Hudson’s answer to that store. Delicious produce for a cosy weekend by the fire, or a summer’s evening picnic by the river

Further afield:

• Montage, Millerton - the best deals on antique furniture

• O.K Pantry, Kinderhook - books, speciality market, children’s toys, homewares

• Alder & Co, Germantown - fashion, homewares

• Pidgin - antiques, homewares

• Gardenheir - menswear, outdoor attire and accessories

I will do my best to keep this updated, but feel free to comment and I can help answer any questions you may have.

Happy travels!